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 This started out as a joke but now these emails are just here for information, in my opinion this woman has a negative outlook on the island but the information is good none the less.

My wife has been in contact with an American woman living in the Seychelles on the island of Mahe. I have not personally talked with nor emailed this woman, but instead my wife has read her emails to me aloud. From reading her blog, she sounded quite negative from the start. In her blog she admits being tired and ready to move. It seems as though she views the island as the lesser of two evils, choosing the island over the “violence” and “global warming” going on in the “rest of the world”.For the record, I have nothing against this woman but I can see that her view of this island is quite pessimistic. With monikers like seysands4sun and Paradise Preoccupied, you would think that person would be upbeat, right? I’m not asking for the brochure and the fancy video. I am a well traveled man and have lived in more countries in the last 5 years than most will have visited in their lifetime, so most of that garbage would fly past me anyway.But… I need to be fair and let you be the judge for yourself. Anything else would be unfair. I applaud this woman for her accomplishments and I cheer her on as she raises her children in a foreign country with its clean beaches and low crime rate, surviving without the modern conveniences that we take for granted everyday. Here is (all) of what she wrote to my wife.“Hi. My name is US. You left a comment on my blog. I was hoping that someone would see it and come to my rescue.

My husband and I have lived in 3rd world countries before, so there will be no surprise as far as not having certain things. We’re expecting things to be slower and basically being cut off from the rest of the world. That’s not a problem. That’s really what we’re looking for.
The things we are concerned about is bureaucracy, red tape, etc. We understand shopping is limited, but we have no idea what is and isn’t available. We also understand that only citizens can buy property there, so we are looking to rent until we can establish a business. Do you know of any websites that list properties for rent? If not, is there a paper we can get our hands on, or something of the like? We’ve seen pretty much everything the internet has to offer, but we’re hoping that you know of some hidden gem that we have missed.
We’ve contacted a real estate agent and he has offered us a 2-bedroom apartment in walking distance from Beau Vallon Beach, shopping, restaurants, etc. The price for the place is about 1500 euro a month. Do you know if we can get a better deal? We will be there around mid-May.
As you’ve read our blog, I’m sure you’ve seen that we are bringing our boat down. Would you happen to know where we could get a mooring and how much that would be? The boat is 30 feet in length and 9 feet wide. We’re considering living on the boat when we arrive for a short time, so someplace in the middle of things would be preferable.
Is there any essential items that can definitely not be purchased on the island? I’m very interested in the shopping available…lol.
We have seen that the internet is not the greatest in the world. What can you tell me about how it performs and what I would need to go through to get it installed?
What kind of vehicles are driven on the island? We were interested in getting a Jeep. Would it be available to buy there or would we have to import it? How easy is it to obtain a driver’s license?
Sorry to bombard you with so many questions so quickly, but we are thirsty for information. Thanks so much for your time and assistance.Regards,
Us”“Re: Moving to Seychelles“Hi, Have you been to Seychelles before? If so, you’ll understand that this is not like any normal third world country most know, as everything here is very expensive and getting more so by the day. Inflation is kicking in big time. As an example, a packet of butter was SR 7.50 a couple of months ago and is now SR 73 …and that’s only when you can find it, which isn’t often these days.Anyway …1500 Euro a month seems very expensive for a two bedroom place, but anyone renting to incoming expats will be ready to rip you off. Personally, I detest Beau Vallon, but I know a lot of expats like it there, so it’s a matter of taste, I suppose, and the style of living people want. (We live in the south of Mahe where there are far fewer expats.)I know nothing about boats or moorings, so can’t help you there, but would think living on the boat would be a good plan while you scope out the country and decide where you do want to live. There is boat parking, or whatever it’s called, at the Yacht Club, at Eden Island, and at The Wharf (a small hotel near Victoria, but all three are near town), but I have no idea how this is arranged or what it costs.How are you planning to stay here? A tourist visa is only good for a short while, and you must have a plan to leave when it’s granted. Coming and hanging around isn’t allowed. Setting up a business requires another sort of allowance to stay and whether or not that is granted will depend on a lot of things.You can buy land here without citizenship, so that’s not a problem, but land prices are also going through the roof. A small piece near us that would have gone for maybe 50,000 Euro a year ago was recently sold for 450,000 Euro, and I won’t be surprised if a million is the next offer by next year.Essential items we can’t get vary day to day and month to month, so there’s no planning ahead. I have a friend who went to town yesterday looking for tires for her car with no luck. Onions were impossible to find a week ago …and then there’s the butter …You can buy cars here, Jeep-like vehicles, too. They are VERY expensive as the duty on a car coming into the country can be as high as 250% of the cost, so you don’t save much bringing in one yourself. Fuel is going up, too, and a liter of gas, petrol, benzine, whatever you know it as, is now something like 12 rupees and set to go up again in another month or so.

Getting a driving license is a simple matter that requires only your other country license.

Do you read “The Nation” online? I don’t know if the ads are in it or not, but that’s where most people advertise.

Red tape is always an issue and nothing is done easily, so be prepared for lots of frustration and waiting around.

That’s about it off the top of my head. Sorry if this sounds a bit gloomy, but I figure you’d want the straight scoop, not a sales pitch.

Best,
Her”

“Hi,
Thanks for your quick reply.
Our plan was to come down for the initial 3 months and while we’re there, submit a business plan to the Seychelles Business Bureau. My husband is a filmmaker and photographer and plans on shooting local promotional videos for companies, hotels, and the tourism board. He called down there and they thought it was an interesting idea and asked for him to submit his plan. There are so many things for us to do that we are just trying to figure out what is viable. What are your suggestions for something that we would be able to bring to the islands that the Seychellois would not be able to do? From my understanding, website construction and similar technical occupations are limited, and this is something that we have experience with.
Basically, we’re not dependent on local economy to live. We’re not rich, but we do okay.
I have a natural beauty product that I make in my home and sell online. I don’t necessarily have to sell it on the island, but if you think there’s a market for something like that, it would be nice to know.
You said hanging out is not allowed. Do you mean the police and immigration officers are running around checking passports and things like that? These are the things that we are trying to get away from, so we really don’t want that kind of environment.
I know this is a lot, but perhaps you can send me your phone number so we could chat. Or maybe if you had Yahoo Messenger or Skype, it would be a little easier to communicate. In any case, I appreciate your help thus far. We appreciate you not giving us the “sales pitch”. It does sound a bit grim, but that has never been a deterrent for us. As far as the inflation situation, we’re coming from London, and it can’t be as bad as here…lol.”

“Re: Moving to Seychelles

Hi, Are you looking to set up a local company, then, or an off-shore sort of thing? Both are possible, and the government is very big on anything that can bring in foreign currency. I’m sure there would be a market for your beauty product locally, and that could bring in some rupees, but will you be able to get your ingredients here? Or is that not an issue?

As for other ventures, there are many goods and services needed here and many ways to make money, but you would have to be here to see what sorts of things fit for you. Plus, things are changing very fast now, so new things will come up as other opportunities fade. Right now, for example, if you have enough money outside to import items you buy for real money abroad, but sell for rupees, you’d make a lot of rupees as the markup is outrageous, so profits are huge. That will change, however, as the monetary situation evens out and the market becomes more competitive, but by then there will be something else going on.

No, people aren’t running around demanding to see your papers, but this is a very small place and they do notice who has been here for a while. And it’s not only the police and immigration who notice, but everyone, so it’s very difficult to get away with staying without doing it legally. If you do overstay your visa and it looks like you were trying to get away with something, they don’t give you another one …ever. I know any number of people who tried that and can’t come back, no matter what.

The connection here is too slow for much luck in voice Skype, but we could IM if you see me online.

Her”

“Hi,

We are looking to set up a local company, not an off-shore thing. We’ve already taken steps to get that set up. My product ingredients come from Africa and the U.S. and everyone ships internationally, so that’s not an issue.

Don’t get the wrong idea about our immigration status. We’re not trying to pull any “fast ones”. The reason we don’t like being questioned all the time is because when we lived in Panama, we got stopped frequently and asked for our papers, which was a real pain in the ass. All we want is an as uncomplicated process as possible to reside in the islands legally.

We did find accommodations for our boat for 150 euro a month, so thank you for that information.

About the internet…is it only slower at your end, or is it a problem all over the island? Are you on dial-up or broadband?

Thanks so much for your help.

Us”

“Re: Moving to Seychelles

Hi, Glad the boat thing worked out.

The Internet is faster in town, from what I hear, but unreliable everywhere. The problem is the international link, which goes down frequently. The other problem is the fact that we have numerous power cuts. I’m on wireless broadband, as that’s what’s available where I am. There are other options in other areas.

I wasn’t worried that you were coming in with any sort of nefarious intent. The talk of papers did put me in mind of “Casablanca”, though and I kept hearing Bogart’s voice in my head …

Her”

“Hi,

Thank you for all your help. We’ve been able to get a little further along with the information you’ve given us.
If you could give us a general idea of what life is like on the island, as far as the people, the weather, day-to-day living, etc. We know it’s hot…lol. I told you we lived in Panama, so we’re used to heat.
You said it was hard to find butter. What about milk?
We would like to send you a gift for your hospitality. We read in one of your posts on your blog that you liked cranberry sauce. Is there anything else that you would like that’s here in London? Something the kids may like?
Also, how is shipping services to the island, such as DHL, FedEx, UPS? We do a lot of shopping online and have a drop-box in the States. We could have everything sent from there. Do you have any experience with how long it would take to arrive?

Thank you again,
US”

“What life is like? Well, that depends.Our life, for example, is very quiet. We have two little kids, so we’re not big on nightlife. In fact, most of the time we’re in bed by 9pm with a good book. An evening out usually means dinner with friends at someone’s house. Weekends are taken up with chores and beach time and the occasional Scrabble game.

Other people live other ways, of course, and the discos are busy on many nights. Some expats spend all their time with other expats, set up reading and craft groups …stuff like that.

The people are like people everywhere, varying widely. The local culture doesn’t promote effusive friendliness or terrific manners and many people come across as downright rude, but for the most part the Seychellois are mildly boring at worst. The societal fabric, however, is changing very fast right now, and crime and drugs are beginning to take hold. Since the police are basically useless, there’s not much of a disincentive, so the upswing is rapid.

Not long ago, almost all the violent crime here was domestic, but that is changing. A woman in my area was killed not long ago by thieves looking for forex, and people are justifiably more afraid than they used to be.

Sometimes there is no milk. Right now, there is no cheese. Sometimes it’s onions that there’s none of. The country has been known to run out of rice, toilet paper, potatoes, bottled water (for lack of bottles), and just about everything else at one time or another. For hardware supplies and other items, wood and cement are almost impossible to get and things like plumbing supplies tend to run under a rule that says when you don’t need them, they’re everywhere, but as soon as you do you’ll not find what you need anywhere.

Shipping services are okay, but usually stop at point of entry. The process of clearing goods is a nightmare everyone dreads, as the system is stupid and frustrating and that rudeness I referred to earlier manifests magnificently in government employees. There is a GST charged on just about everything that comes in that is based on 1) the price of the goods, plus 2) the cost of shipping, plus 3) any applicable import duty, plus 4) a 30% markup just in case you should decide to sell whatever it is. The procedure is often hilarious, if you can manage to see it that way.

For example, if someone sends you a gift you have to fill out a bill of entry before you can see the item, which is difficult if you don’t know what they’ve sent you. This is pretty typical Seychelles thinking, by the way.

My mother sends me stuff from the States often. Normally, it takes about a month for a small box full of mint jelly, Mac & Cheese mix and tortillas to make it this far.

What else? Oh, the weather.

Yes, it’s always some version of warm, although evenings cool down pleasantly most of the time. Certain times of the year are better on certain sides of the island, and there are months when it rains more than others. April is notoriously the hottest month of the year, while July can be the coolest …cool enough that we put a light duvet on our bed.

We don’t have aircon in our home, aside from in my office. The rest of the house has ceiling fans that do just fine for keeping things reasonably comfortable. The sun can be fierce, but being this close to the Equator gives us some of the extra protection of a thick ozone layer, so although sunburn is a concern, it’s not quite as dangerous as it is in someplace like Poole.

Anything else?”

“Hi,

I don’t want to sound rude, but it seems like you have a negative attitude towards a lot of things going on there, and I’m wondering why you’ve been there so long. Maybe you’re not trying to make things sound so bad, but for us, who’ve never been there, you’re kind of taking away our incentive to go.
Living in Mexico, the tax is about 40-50% on imports, and in Panama, it’s about the same. In France, it’s 30%. And rude government employees are expected anywhere you go. But with rude people, boring people, violent crime, drugs, worthless police, no electricity, no toilet paper, cheese, butter, cement or wood, unreliable internet, inflation, infectious diseases, and the corporate devils ruining the beauty of the islands, what makes you stay? It sounds like a little Beirut, instead of a tropical island.
Is there anything positive about living in the Seychelles? I know it can’t be all bad, and maybe you don’t realize that it sounds that way. I know you wanted to give us the straight story, but most of this stuff is normal for any expat living in a foreign country.
My husband and I live simple lives. A normal day for us is my husband making or editing a film, myself preparing my product, and otherwise, watching movies, reading books, cooking, and just enjoying the surroundings of wherever we are.
In my experience in Cancun, Bocas del Toro, Jamaica, and other island atmospheres, the people tend to be mellow, laid-back, and lazy. This is what we expect and what we are looking for. Relaxation.”

I am assuming that this is the first time this lady has ever lived abroad and it’s just been some hellish 15 years. As my wife stated, everything she mentioned is NORMAL for living abroad, even in France, the UK, and the US. You can expect rude people, violence, drugs and slow government officials.

We did find out that: 1) electricity is about the same as it is here in the UK… £25 a week, and if you run a small AC at night, expect to pay a little more 2) in the month of October, the electricity went out one time and was back on in a matter of 2 hours, and more importantly, things are getting better 3) other than Broadband, you can get a dial-up service for a nominal fee 4) satellite TV is available with most of the channels from South Africa 5) yes, the islands do run out of things from time to time, but normally there will be a neighbor that can help out when he or she has stocked up 6) the people are like any other islanders, or even Mexicans for that matter, and everything is always “Tomorrow”, which we call “Mañanaland” in Mexico. Boring and lazy atmosphere is always equated with poverty. It’s just how things are. After our talk with a British and South African couple, we saw the other side of the coin. It’s quiet and laid back, and if you have a small amount of patience, it’s PARADISE!

If you are going to tell something, TELL IT ALL.

Her: Yes, you suck.

I am appalled at the treatment I just got from you on your blog, but must
thank you for the lesson learned …never again pay any attention to morons
who have made their minds up before ever asking a question, and avoid like
the plague arrogant assholes.

Yes, lesson learned.

You, by the way, will learn your own. This is a very small place. I will
soon hear everything about your ventures once you make port, and will be
pleasantly amused as you prove your worth.

Making enemies before ever touching Seychelles soil is a really stupid move,
but prophetic, I’m sure.

Once again, you suck. I’m sure I could come up with something much more
eloquent, but you’re not worth the effort.

Sandra

Us: I’m not sure what “treatment” you’re referring to. All we did is point out to others that they must speak with a lot of different people to get a clear idea about a place. Your information was helpful in some ways, but you didn’t tell us many good things about the place you call home, and I can’t believe that it’s all bad. So we sought out other opinions. Our blog is about our quest for information, so we will post up any and all bits of information we receive, good or bad.
As far as making enemies, I, in no way, consider you an enemy. However, if you feel that concerning yourself with our daily activities will make your life worthwhile, have at it. Maybe you can learn how to make the best of what you have. If things don’t work out for us there, we will move on in our journey and take away what I’m sure will be fond memories and more experience in world travel and living. Or, just maybe, it will be exactly what we are looking for and we will have the time of our lives.
Do not mistake our confidence for arrogance. And as far as the other insulting words you are using to describe us, our skin is pretty thick. It’s a shame that you feel that you have to go to such lengths to express the negativity that we disagreed with in the first place. I was hoping to maybe make you take a step back and think “Hey, maybe I am being too negative. Let me tell them the things that I enjoy about this place.” But, it seems, that point was lost on you.
I hope your life works out for you and you can find the happiness that we enjoy.

Her: Personal emails ending up on you blog and you’re not sure about the treatment? Give me a break.

And, of course life in Seychelles is “not all bad”, you idiot, but you are so obviously convinced of the plusses it seems you were asking for the minuses …or to put it another way, the dream was there, it was the reality that was missing.

Arrogance you have in abundance, which will have you fitting right in here with the Eden Island South Africans. Enjoy.

S

Us: God bless you.

Keep it Locked!

….Obolo

1 Comment

  1. donald st ange said,

    we can help youand your family

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